![]() It's far easier to simply cut a couple of inches of wood off at either end of a board and move along to the next job. Snipe free machinery is a myth in my experience, and it's not a myth worth chasing. And there usually is also at least some minimal stress in wood, even in properly seasoned wood. After all, wood is hygroscopic and reacts to changes in RH, and RH changes constantly. It's further compounded if the wood being thicknessed has any tendency to bow or cup, which is common. The problem is compounded if the lower anti friction rollers are raised at all to handle softer and/or wetter stock. ![]() I've found that machines can be set up carefully so that snipe is reduced or minimal, but it can't be entirely eliminated.Īs soon as, for example, pressure is released on the upper surface of the wood by any one of the infeed roller, chip-breaker, pressure bar and outfeed roller of a thicknesser, the wood will tend to spring upwards into the cutter block causing snipe. In my experience it's impossible to set up a machine to eliminate all snipe. Some snipe more than others, and some only snipe occasionally, but they all snipe. ![]() In thirty five years of furniture making for a living, and thousands of hours of using light industrial, heavy industrial, and amateur level machinery I've never seen one that didn't snipe. I'm just telling it as it is in the real woodworking world, ha, ha. ![]() I'm supping a beer as I type, and there are plenty more where that came from, so no shortage there. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |